Roadtrip Southwest
10 days living out of our car, 5 states visited, 4,000 miles on the road, and lots of love later I am sitting here reflecting in my bed with the guest of rain dressing my windows and matcha lattes warming my stomach. This story starts as a 21-year old me realized that this is the last summer before I graduate college and have the foreseeable now as an opportunity to travel.
I always have this intense desire to uproot my life and take it on the road for a bit. Since last summer I have always felt like I was being pulled to the southwest. Desert landscapes call to me with their foreign and other worldly terrain. I love being uncomfortable while traveling because I always endure the most amazing experiences.
Whether its the intense heat that makes me feel like the sun lives inside of me, or its walking around barefoot in scorpion territory biting your lip and hoping you'll pass the paranoia of what barren lands hide on their insides, I absolutely love the process of being in new places. I was lucky enough to pack the car to the brim with my friend Taylor and head out for endless days of new eye-stimuli.
Day 1: Ashland, Oregon to Elko County, Nevada.
The first day, not pictured, we drove 9 hours from Ashland, Oregon to South-fork Recreation Campground in eastern Nevada. After breaking our tent, getting stuck in a storm, and pulled over I decided to smoke a cigarette in the hot rain and go to bed. Taylor and I had a good laugh at the unfortunate events that followed our first day as homeless 20 somethings. The following morning we set off to the Little Grand Canyon
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Day 2: Elko County, Nevada to Castle Dale, Utah
With making it almost all the way horizontally through Nevada, our first landmark of excitement laid 7 hours away in the valleys of a hidden gem, The Little Grand Canyon in the San Rafael Swell, Utah. Before we arrived to our destination, we stopped for lunch at the Salt Flats just crossing the border into Utah.
After looking for bison (not a thing) and watching others do donuts, we ventured deeper into Utah. Upon arriving at Little Grand Canyon, we drove down a dirt road for about 25 miles in my Subaru cross trek. The storm seemed to follow us down our never ending gravel experience. With taylor and I crossing our fingers that we would finally beat this flat landscape, we had a Thelma and Louise moment when the terrain opened into a welcoming cracked universe. The rain cleared up within 10 minutes of us setting up bed in the back of my car. Although this campground is more unknown then others, it lives along the cliffs of San Rafael with marked camp spots and a bathroom. We felt so lucky to be able to watch the sunset cascading between different layers of red rocks. We celebrated with bagels with vegan cream cheese (& hot sauce if your spicy ;) and Moscow Mules.
Day 3: San Rafael Sweel, Utah to Moab, Utah
Moab is home to Arches National Park. Possibly my new favorite park next to Joshua Tree. Mars and red dirt, cowboy hats and art galleries, and the most beautiful milky night sky all give me reason to come back to spend more time in this place. Our campsite ran along the Colorado River, which we dipped into to cleanse ourself of red dirt stained feet and to soften the dreads we gathered after forgetting a hair brush for our trip.
During this night in particular I really connected to a chapter from Woman Who Run With Wolves (my bible) by Clarissa Pinkola Estes. The passage mentioned our genetic bodies, and how our cultures and land shape our physical body. It mentioned how our indigenous bodies were made to survive in our environments. This new take on body positivity mirrored the monumental rocks that surrounded our camp spot and i jotted down a few notes in my journal that read: "my body curves, in skin that holds the weight of my heart."
That night taylor and I were in our tent by 8:30 hoping to get asleep by 9 for our early morning. Instead our hungry hearts went on a tangent of all things holy to us and later lead us outside our tent around 10:30 to stare in awe at the most detailed and freckled sky that we had ever seen.
Day 4: Moab, Utah to Bryce Canyon, Utah
We woke up at 5am that morning and quickly thrashed around at campsite trying to pack up before sunrise. The road from Moab to Bryce Canyon was probably my favorite hours on the road. The landscape changed so quickly and one moment you were looking at dinosaur land and then into yellow brimmed flowers lining the roads. The rest stops were on cliffs and canyons and our switchovers from driving were in lush forests. Red Canyon greeted us into the kitchy and western town of Bryce, Utah. We camped in the National Park at North Campground, a 100 meter walk from the edge of the hoodoos. Bryce canyon looks like a water color. The soft pinks and the burnt orange sculptures welcomed you into a vast valley of texture.
Sunrise and Sunset up a hill just a quarter of a mile away was not to pass. Although the cool air greeted us a little too warmly (or not), we made that trek up the hill to watch the valley grow gold and fade into darkness.
Although we had to work our way around seeing the landscapes in a short amount of time, short hikes around our camp spot yielded amazing views.
Day 5: Bryce Canyon Utah, to Monument Valley, Arizona
Monument Valley was a trip. Between the buzz of tourists, my hangry stomach, and the western cowboy anomaly that was indigenous land, my head was left so dizzy. The wind was so intense that night that we thought our broken tent might finally turn to dust along with the tumble weeds. To be honest, I felt like a distant tourist while here and wish I could have appreciated the raw and harshness of the environment more. I clumped myself in with the other young travelers that just wanted to get their fix of photos and leave without any knowledge on the culture or history. I felt this way mostly because it advertised the old John Wayne cowboy movies, and lightly hit on the indigenous custodianship of the land. However, all employed was indigenous and the park was not government owned which made me feel more at ease when venturing into the land.
Monument Valley lies on the border of Utah and Arizona and does not play as a participant in daylight savings. It is a Navajo Reservation on the Colorado Plateau. They are the USA’s largest Native American tribe – called the valley Tsé Biiʼ Ndzisgaii or "Valley of the Rocks." Natives still live on the land without electricity and running water, relying on farming and grazing for income.
The landscape was breath taking and although I did not drive the 17 mile road for fear of getting my car stuck, the beauty of the deserted plateau juxtaposed with the protruding mesas was unlike anything I've ever witnessed before.
Day 6: Monument Valley to Sedona, Arizona
Sedona has always been one of my favorite places. I've talked of moving there after college because of the enormous red rocks surrounding an artsy town with lots to offer. This time I came from Sedona from the North and to my surprise a huge national forest, the Coconino Forest laid directly behind Sedona. The whole time we were driving through the forest, Taylor and I kept cooing about the Oregon-like pine forests and bright light filtering through the trees.
Sedona is a vortex of the world, proclaiming alongside with other vortex sites such as the Great Pyramids in Egypt, Machu Picchu in Peru, and Uluru in Australia. A vortex is a spot where it is believed that energy is either emanating out of or into the Earth's plane. Vortexes move in a spiral motion vertically. Chapel of the Holy Cross is one sweet feminine vortex spot.
The Chapel of the Holy Cross is a Roman-Catholic Chapel ran by the Diocese of Sedona. The architecture was inspired by the Empire State Building by Marguerite Brunswig Staude.
Son Silver West is the dopest outside gallery, brimming out the edges with old dingy signs, eclectic furniture, alien sculptures, and animal skulls. I could have spent hours at this store admiring all of its ins and outs and cactus rooms. Definitely don't skip out on the colorful tiles they have here.
Finally, make sure to hit Chocolatree for a delicious lunch. We sat outside by a waterfall with a lush garden around us.
Day 7: Sedona, Arizona to Scottsdale, Arizona
We had a stop over in Phoenix to see my lovely friend and spend some time in the deep desert. The sun was dry and hot but that didn't stop us from wandering around the Sonoran picking over minerals and cactus skeletons. We spent the rest of the night watching Portlandia and eating take out. Such a cherished part of the trip.
Day 8: Phoenix, Arizona to Joshua Tree, California
If you know me, you know I have a deep love for Joshua Tree. I first came to the Mojave about 3 years ago after seeing all the photos of it exploding all over instagram. Ever since that trip, I have returned each year. This time just four months later than the time before. I just love the oddly awkward plants and how they live only here.
We stayed the night in a renovated homestead deep in the desert, down a rough dirt road, past the saguaro cactus. It kept us calm and collected after getting lost in the desert.
After filling our bellies with pasta from Cross Roads downtown and a vegan pear pie from Natural Sisters Cafe, we sped down the road into the national park for sunset. Just pick a giant boulder to climb up on and watch the park grow dark.
Lastly, I bid farewell to my love with a stroll in its farmers markets and buying my last souvenirs. I always know I will return soon to my sweet lover so I felt at ease as we drove away.
Day 9: Joshua Tree, California to Groveland, California
Taylor and I were ambitious and decided that we must get our glimpse into Yosemite National Park. After believing that we couldn't get a spot close to visit the park, I found www.hipcamp.com where we found the cutest off-the-grid animal farm. We had a platform in the trees that lay foundation for our swinging bed.
Upon arrival, we met the inhabitants of Wondernut farm and had fun chasing after squealing piggies and trotting goats as we ran them to their dinner. We followed by going into the town of Groveland and making our way into the western disco bar called Iron Door Grill. Everything about this restaurant had Taylor and I amused. Whether it was our older waitress who wore a lace tank with a matching tutu, or the license plate adorned wood, or the different animal heads, we felt like we were getting the culture of this area down to the t. We sat in there for almost two hours, munching on veggie burgers and sweet potato fries with mustard.
The next morning we packed up our belongings and set foot at 7 am to drive two hours into Yosemite National Park. We didn't know the park too well but knew we wanted to see half dome. After a perilous but incredible drive, and a fire lining the road, we made it to Glacier Point where we admired the stone valley below. This was probably the most breath taking view I saw on the whole trip.
The valley below Yosemite welcomed us with pristine rivers and meadows. Although we spent little time here, we recognized that we had to make a longer trip to see its every beauty.
Day 10: Yosemite National Park, California to Ashland, Oregon
Our last day was spent coming home. 9 hours on the road reflecting on our last 10 days and biggest adventure. It was spent excitedly awaiting our own bed but also equally devastated that our home was no longer on the road.
This trip has only just sparked the opportunities that await me outside that door. To think I have only scratched the surface of the unknown pushes me to experience and love my life creation ever more. I am so grateful to have had this experience in the South West and many of these places I will return and feel a home in.
